A lot of my nonfiction is very strong environmental stories - I was the first guy to write about the dolphin killings in Japan.
I write a lot of environmental stories.
Surfing is a life path. You have to really commit... You have to let go and have faith that it's gonna work out when you take off.
Within and within. Dreaming. How we gentle our losses into paler ghosts.
Nobody, not even artists, understood art. What speed has to do with it. How much work it takes, year after year, building the skills, the trust in the process, more work probably than any Olympic athl...